A Cozy Winter Trip to Amsterdam: Christmas Lights, Canal Tours & Sweet Treats

Amsterdam is a city defined by its canals, compact layout, and layered history, where centuries-old buildings sit alongside vibrant neighborhoods and everyday local life. From world-class museums and reflective historical sites to cozy cafés and scenic walks, the city offers an experience that feels both culturally rich and easy to explore, even on a short winter visit.

Plan Your Amsterdam Trip

At A Glance | Day-by-Day | Christmas Markets | Top Historic Sites | Food & Drink | Getting Around | Practical Tips | Reflections

Amsterdam at a Glance

Season

December

Neighborhood

Canal Ring

Goals

Museum & Light Tour

Budget

Pricey

Day 1
  1. Dam Square – historic city hub
  2. Begijnhof – quiet courtyard with historic hidden homes
  3. Iguana Square – unique plaza with lizard statues
  4. The English Bookshop – cozy spot to find English books
  5. Floating Flower Market – iconic canal-side flower market
  6. Pancakehouse Upstairs – charming and tiny with traditional Dutch pancakes
  7. Heineken Experience – interactive brewery tour with tastings
  8. Amsterdam Light Tour – illuminated canal cruise featuring themed light displays
Day 2
  1. Mortimer – casual eatery with inventive European fare
  2. Anne Frank House – powerful historical museum featuring The Secret Annex
  3. Winkel 43 – famous café with must-try Dutch apple pie
  4. Botanic Gardens – historic gardens with several greenhouses
  5. Fabel Friet – original Dutch fries with signature toppings
  6. The American Book Center – multi-floor bookstore with large selection
  7. Sampurna – authentic Indonesian cuisine with flavorful dishes
  8. Red Light District – historic district with nightlife and culture
  9. Grizzly Bar – cozy American bar in lively neighborhood
  10. Strooperie – specialty shop for stroopwafels

Day-by-Day Activities

Day 1

We arrived in Amsterdam around 11 AM and were blessed by an early check-in at our hotel. We took the time to freshen up and make a plan for the afternoon. We heard amazing things about Upstairs Pancakes and managed to grab a quick reservation for 3 PM (shout-out to my friend for braving the WhatsApp call) and then headed out to do some sightseeing beforehand.

Knowing that I would not make it to 3 PM without food, we grabbed a quick snack at a supermarket we passed. Jumbo City has a few locations throughout the city and had a great assortment of ready-made meals (I grabbed a falafel wrap), fruits, veggies, and other pantry staples. Then we continued on to fit in some sight-seeing before our reservations.

Our first stop was Dam Square where we read there is often entertainment set up in the square center making it a lively place to get a taste of Amsterdam. On our visit, we only saw a few food stalls and a lot of pigeons so didn’t spend much time in the square.

We continued south to visit Begijnhof – a women-only community open to the public (as long as you’re quiet) with a serene courtyard and charming chapel. We spent a bit strolling down the path and admiring the peaceful buildings and lawn. On the other side of the chapel, there is a smaller courtyard with charming art nestled into the nooks of a white building.

After completing a loop around the courtyard, we still had some time to kill before our pancake reservation, so we wandered up and down canals and through the streets admiring the architecture, assortment of shops (there are a lot of bookstores and antique stores – some even with napping cats in the window!), and marveling at the tiny vehicles parked along the roads! We found what looks like a Christmas market being setup across from the Leidseplein transit stop. Online, it appears the market should have opened December 1st so maybe we just had bad luck! However, we did see a grassy area covered with lizard and iguana statues.

Shortly after the lizard square, we decided to stop in at The English Bookstore based on the cute Christmas display they had in the window! Inside, there were a huge variety of adult, young adult, and kids books all in English. It was very reminiscent of a local bookstore I’d expect to find back home.

After the bookstore, we decided to start making our way back towards Upstairs Pancakes – and Amsterdam’s Floating Flower Market was conveniently on the way! We strolled down the street and admired the variety in the floating stalls lining the canal.

Finally, it was time for pancakes! After a climb up some narrow and steep stairs, we found ourselves in the cutest tiny dining room adorned with tea pots. We had a delicious meal at Pancakehouse Upstairs!

Full of pancakes, we set off on a walk south to the Heineken Experience held in the original brewery of Heineken beer. We purchased tickets to the tour and enjoyed learning some history of the beer, although the tour was quite a production with special effects. Once the experience concluded, we hung out in the taproom a bit and enjoyed freshly poured Heineken. I found the gift shop particularly comical as you could purchase almost anything Heineken branded!

When we left the Heineken building, it was dark and cold so we took the opportunity to hop on the metro and take that back to our hotel. We had a little time to relax before bundling up for our evening Amsterdam Lights Tour. The boat took us through a maze of canals flanked by various lighted artwork where various artists contributed to the same theme – “Legacy”.

Chilled after the 75 minute tour in an open boat, we called Day 1 complete and headed back to rest up for the next day!

Day 2

Day 2 started relatively early as we knew we wanted a “real” breakfast before our Anne Frank tour at 10:15. We packed up and checked out of the hotel since we’d be taking an overnight train from Amsterdam to Berlin that evening. After storing our bags with the hotel desk, we set out to Mortimer for breakfast.

Filled up on coffee and a hearty meal, we headed over to the Anne Frank Museum. They don’t let you inside until your tour time begins, so we took the opportunity to check out a nearby statue and did a quick loop around the nearby neighborhood. Once inside, we enjoyed a quick history primer on Anne’s story and then proceeded through the museum. To learn more about the experience and my recommendations, see the historical detail section on the Anne Frank Museum.

After making our way through the museum and picking up a copy of her book, we figured the nearby Winkel 43 with its famed apple pie would do the trick.

During the light tour, we took note of yoga sculptures that were near the Amsterdam botanical gardens. My friend is a yoga instructor and I love a good yoga class, so we decided to get a closer look. The botanical gardens is on the east side of Amsterdam, so we walked back to Dam square and hopped on tram line 14 to Mr. Visserplein. Then we just had a short walk over a bridge and through Wertheimpark to do yoga with the sculptures!

Given we were already across town, we decided to enter the Botanic Garden and see what Amsterdam had to offer in the winter months. It was chilly and a lot of plants were going dormant, but we enjoyed walking through the grounds and visiting the different greenhouses.

Once we finished our visit at the gardens, we decided we were ready for another snack and wanted to check out the famous Fabel Friet. So we got back on the tram line 14 and rode that to the Rokin stop then walked a bit in search of our fries. The line moved very quickly and soon we were eating our fries as the pigeons eyed us.

We then popped into another bookstore – The American Book Center. We perused through three floors of books (!), marveled at the same board games we play back home, and then finished with a few small purchases. Finally, we heard that Indonesian food was a great option in Amsterdam. We didn’t have any reservations so decided an earlier dinner around 6 PM would be a safer bet and luckily Sumpurna could squeeze us in.

After an absolute feast, we still had a few hours to kill before our train and wanted to see what the buzz about this red light district was all about. We spent our time slowly walking down the street and taking in all the lights and signs. From a museum about the history of the district to live shows to themed shops to bars, there were a variety of different establishments lining the street. Once we made it to the end of the district, we turned off the main street and found a casual bar – Grizzly. It was on the right place of the spectrum between dive bar and upscale establishment. We were able to post up at the bar, order a few beers, and kill some time before our train.

On our way back to the hotel to grab our bags, we realized that we still hadn’t eaten a stroopwafel in Amsterdam, so we stopped at the Strooperie. Honestly, it was fine and the google reviews agreed with us. Next time, I would do more research and find a better rated spot to intentionally stop by!

Finally, we utilized the very nice bathroom in our hotel lobby to change into night clothes for our train and headed to the train station! Check out my post about our 8-Day Christmas Market Tour around Europe to see what we thought about the night train and tips before you go!

If there’s more detail you’re hoping for, you can check out my breakdown on the Christmas Markets we saw (aka the light tour for this stop), our top Cultural & Historical Sites, the top things we had to Eat & Drink, quick tips on Getting Around Amsterdam, and finally Practical Tips ranging from where to stay to what to pack!

Christmas Market Breakdown

The Amsterdam Light Tour was the defining winter moment for us in Amsterdam. I have read there are more traditional Christmas markets near the museum square, but we prioritized more random wandering than scheduled market viewing.

Amsterdam Light Tour

The Amsterdam Light Festival transforms the city’s canals into an open-air gallery each winter, featuring large-scale light installations by international artists. Experiencing the displays from a canal cruise adds context through the cultural and social statements behind each piece, making it both visually striking and thoughtfully engaging.

We booked an open boat cruise which turned out to be covered with removable plastic windows – perfect since it ended up raining on the night we went. There were drinks for purchase on board from mulled wine to beer to nonalcoholic hot chocolate. The guides on board the boat called out some key architectural bits as well as introduced each display and the artist intent behind it.

Top Historic & Cultural Sites

Amsterdam offers a mix of profound history, vibrant culture, and natural beauty, making it a city where every stroll can be an experience. From the deeply moving Anne Frank House to the colorful floating flower market and serene Botanic Gardens, these sites highlight different facets of the city’s rich character.

Anne Frank House

The Anne Frank House is one of Amsterdam’s most significant historical sites, preserving the home where Anne Frank and her family hid during World War II and where she wrote her famous diary. The museum situates Anne’s story within the broader context of Nazi occupation in the Netherlands, tracing the Frank family’s flight from Germany, the realities of life in hiding, and the network of people who helped sustain them for more than two years. Walking through the preserved rooms and the Secret Annex offers a look into the physical space with a deeper understanding of how ordinary homes became sites of resistance, fear, and resilience during the war.

We booked a tour with the introductory program which was a 30-minute lesson offering background on who the Franks were and how their family history intersected the unfolding of World War II in Germany and The Netherlands. We then got the opportunity to walk through the museum and the Annex with an included audio tour.

Tickets for the Anne Frank House must be booked through the museum’s website in advance. They open for the next six weeks every Tuesday at 10 AM CET and will sell out. In an extremely short trip, there wasn’t a lot of margin for error so we booked our ticket the day they became available on our date.

One final tip – there is no where inside to wait for the tour so plan that into your arrival if the weather is poor. We did notice a basement bar around the corner offering quick bites and drinks tailored to those waiting for their tour time, but we opted to walk around the nearby neighborhood to stay warm instead.

The experience of the Anne Frank House was a highlight of my entire winter trip to Europe. The weight of the experience and what I took with me into my time after the trip is so important that I cannot recommend the Anne Frank House enough.

Floating Flower Market

The Bloemenmarkt, Amsterdam’s famous floating flower market, dates back to 1862 and is the world’s only floating flower market. Originally set up on houseboats along the Singel canal to make flower trading easier for local growers, it became a hub for tulip bulbs, cut flowers, and other horticultural goods. Today, the market still floats on the canal, offering a colorful mix of blooms, bulbs, and souvenirs, blending historic charm with a distinctly Dutch floral tradition.

We found a wide variety of flowers and bulbs, from iconic Dutch tulips to hyacinths, daffodils, and orchids, as well as potted plants and garden accessories for sale. Many stalls also offer packaged bulbs with certificates that allow you to legally bring them home, making it easy for visitors to take a piece of Amsterdam’s iconic tulips with them. Beyond plants, there are plenty of small souvenirs, postcards, and flower-themed gifts to browse while strolling along the canal.

We spent our time wandering through a variety of stalls. While may offered similar assortments of bulbs and seeds, one had a large variety of pots and a stall on the end offered a wide assortment of fresh cut flowers. I was surprised to see so many fresh flowers even in December! We contemplated buying a few gifts, but ultimately decided to avoid lugging our purchases through the day’s adventures.

If you or a loved one has a green thumb, I recommend stopping by this market as part of your souvineer shopping!

Botanic Gardens

The Hortus Botanicus Amsterdam is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world, founded in 1638 to serve as a center for medicinal plant research. Originally created to supply doctors and apothecaries with useful herbs, the garden has grown over centuries into a lush urban oasis, preserving rare and exotic plants while offering visitors a quiet retreat from the city streets.

Today, the gardens feature a diverse collection of plants from around the globe, including tropical trees, historic medicinal herbs, and seasonal flowers. Among the highlights is the butterfly room, where exotic species flutter freely among tropical plants. There are also large greenhouses curated to mimic a range of environments from tropical to desert.

In December, there was a limited selection of plants outside but the interior greenhouses were both a break from the chill in the air and housed an impressive display. Many had elevated walkways or windows below pond water levels to offer a different perspective on the collection.

The gardens are not a must-see on your stop to Amsterdam, but it was a great change of pace to switch gears and spend some time wandering and reading educational blurbs about the vast amount of plants in the gardens. If you are in the general neighborhood and looking for a mostly indoor activity, the gardens are a good way to spend an hour or two.

Food & Drink Highlights

Amsterdam is a city made for eating your way through, and we approached it like a culinary treasure hunt. From sweet treats like the legendary apple pie at Winkle 43 to savory pancakes, hearty breakfasts, and even classic Dutch fries, we made a point of sampling a wide spectrum of traditional flavors. Along the way, we also embraced the city’s international influences, including a feast of Indonesian cuisine that showcases Amsterdam’s rich culinary history.

Pancakehouse Upstairs

Grimburgwal 2, 1012 GA Amsterdam, Netherlands

We both ordered hot tea which came in the cutest combo teapots that separated to reveal a tea cup on the bottom half and tea pot on top. We also decided to split two pancakes so we could have a savory option as well as a sweet option. At the recommendation of the waiter, we ordered the Kai with bacon, brie, and honey as well as their daily special with Stoofpeertjes (steamed pears) and homemade cream. Both were so delicious and very filling!

I highly recommend Pancakehouse Upstaris but note that you do NEED a reservation – it is absolutely tiny with only four tables. I would suggest planning this out strategically and call in advance. We called the same day and they fit us in, but a time other than 3 PM would have been ideal.

Mortimer

Nieuwezijds Kolk 33, 1012 PV, Amsterdam, Netherlands

We came to Mortimer for a hearty breakfast and Mortimer delivered! I ordered the Eggs Benedict while my friend got the scrambled eggs. We also ordered a latte and a cappachino to fuel us up for the day. Everything we ate was fresh, delicious, and well seasoned!

I highly recommend this spot for a good breakfast before a day of adventure. It was super cute on the inside with two levels of seating. I do recommend getting there early as nearly every table was taken by the time we left.

Winkel 43

Noordermarkt 43, 1015 NA Amsterdam, Netherlands

Often reviewed as the best apple pie in Amsterdam, we had to try it for ourselves. We sat outside to jump ahead in the line and ordered warm tea with a slice of apple pie to split. The slice was huge and so delicious with a generous helping of whipped cream. We did have to agree with the reviews – the apple pie was absolutely delicious.

I definitely recommend stopping at Winkle! Especially after the Anne Frank House, a fresh slice of apple pie is a great palatte cleanser. We did see someone getting a pie to go, so if you’re short on time that could be a good option as well!

Fabel Friet

Runstraat 1, 1016 GJ Amsterdam, Netherlands

Fabel Friet is a popular stop for authentic Dutch fries, often with long lines filled with both locals and tourists alike. The line moved very quickly since they have a limited menu and a system to get people in and out quickly. We ordered their signature – fries with truffle mayo and parmesean cheese. The birds eyed us with jealousy and we spared not a single fry for them to eat.

I highly recommend stopping by. We used this as a midafternoon snack and sharing an order between two people was the perfect amount of fries. Note that there is no room for eating inside and you’re encouraged to take your fries to the canal instead of standing in front of the nearby stores.

Sampurna

Singel 498, 1017 AX Amsterdam, Netherlands

Indonesian cuisine is incredibly popular in Amsterdam, a legacy of the Netherlands’ colonial history in Indonesia. We were recommended Sampurna by a friend and was lucky to get a table without a reservation. We ordered the single course and opted to have everything vegetarian. I think they felt bad about the lack of meat because we got more dishes than they typically serve and tried tofu and tempura probably cooked every way in a wide range of sauces. Everything was absolutely delicious and we had no hope of finishing everything!

I thought Sampurna was excellent and would highly recommend eating dinner here. There are a lot of options on the menu but I would pick between one of the preset options (one, two, or three courses) to have the ability to try a wide variety of items on the menu! I would also recommend making a reservation – there were plenty of options when we looked the day before, so a little bit of planning would go a long way!

Getting Around Amsterdam

Getting around Amsterdam is a mix of charming strolls and efficient public transit. The city’s compact layout makes walking not only practical but one of the best ways to experience its canals, hidden courtyards, and everyday life. For longer distances or chillier days, trams and the metro offer a reliable, easy-to-use system that complements exploring on foot.

Quick Transit Tips:
  • The easiest way to get around Amsterdam is on foot – bring comfortable walking shoes and plan to get a lot of steps in.
  • Amsterdam’s public transit system operates on tap-to-pay and automatically calculates the fare based on where you tapped in and out. Make sure to use the same card on the same device to avoid challenges exiting.
  • Many tram stops will have multiple trams operating on the same tracks. Make sure to know what tram you need to board and confirm the number on the front of the first car.
  • When in doubt, use Google Maps!
In the City

Amsterdam’s compact, walkable layout makes exploring the city on foot both easy and rewarding. Wandering along the canals, it’s easy to stumble across hidden courtyards, quaint shops, and glimpses of everyday life in the Dutch capital. Over the course of our visit, we averaged about seven miles a day on foot, so make sure to pack comfortable shoes!

We did utilize the city’s public transportation twice: once on a dark, chilly evening to get back to the hotel quickly and once to get to and from the Botanic Gardens. The underground metro system was similar to London with tap-to-pay entry and exits. The metro mostly operates in a relatively north-south vector from the main train station to the museum plaza with a few stops between.

The trams on the other hand weave through city streets, offering more options to explore beyond the canal ring. We used tram line 14 to get from Dam Square out to the Botanic Gardens and back. These also utilize and tap-to-pay system where every entry and exit to the tram requires a tap in and out.

Most people think bikes when they think of Amsterdam, but we didn’t rent any during our trip. We did pass multiple options for bike rentals so they seem readily available. If the weather was warmer, this is an option we probably would have considered! I would recommend doing some research on bike laws and norms before renting though, locals take their bike lanes seriously!

Practical Tips

Neighborhoods & Where to Stay

Amsterdam offers a wide range of neighborhoods, each with its own personality and pace. We chose to stay near the main train station within the inner canal ring for maximum convenience, which made arrivals, departures, and navigating the city incredibly easy—especially without having to roll luggage over cobblestones and narrow bridges. Other neighborhoods farther from the center offer a slower, more residential or artsy feel and can be a great option if you’re staying longer or prioritizing atmosphere over proximity. For those drawn to the iconic canal houses, staying along the water is undeniably charming, but expect to pay a premium for the views and historic ambiance.

Weather & Packing

December in Amsterdam can be deceptively cold, especially if you underestimate the wind. On our first day, we thought we could get away with lighter coats after walking from the station to our hotel in the sunshine—but once we turned down shady alleys and narrow canal streets, the city quickly turned into a wind tunnel and we regretted not dressing warmer. By the second day, we came better prepared with heavier layers and enjoyed a much more comfortable day exploring the city. If you’re visiting in winter, this is especially important for canal tours: once the sun sets, temperatures drop quickly on the water, so be sure to bundle up with a warm coat, scarf, and hat to fully enjoy the experience without freezing.

Safety & Solo Travel Recommendations

Amsterdam is frequently ranked as one of the best destinations for solo female travelers, and after visiting, it’s easy to see why. The city feels safe and well-lit, English is widely spoken, and the constant presence of people in central neighborhoods made walking around—even at night—feel comfortable and low-stress. As with any major city, practicing normal vigilance around crowded areas and public transit is important, but overall I felt at ease navigating Amsterdam on my own. Between the walkable layout, friendly atmosphere, and strong transit network, it’s a city I would absolutely feel confident traveling to solo.

Amsterdam Reflections & Summary

Amsterdam in December proved to be a compact yet deeply layered stop, blending history, culture, and everyday city life into a very walkable experience. Even over a short visit, the city delivered a thoughtful mix of museums, neighborhoods, and seasonal highlights, all tied together by its iconic canals. The dense layout made it easy to pack a lot into each day without feeling frantic, and wandering between stops often became just as memorable as the destinations themselves.

If there was one defining experience of this visit, it was the Anne Frank House. The emotional weight and historical significance of the museum made it the most impactful stop of the trip and one I would prioritize again without hesitation. Complementing that depth were lighter but still distinctly Amsterdam moments — drifting through the Amsterdam Light Festival on a canal boat, exploring the floating flower market, and ducking into bookshops, bakeries, and cafés that felt woven into daily life rather than curated solely for visitors.

What stood out most about Amsterdam was how effortlessly it balanced big-name sights with small discoveries. From chasing sweet treats and sampling classic Dutch foods to strolling quiet courtyards and lively streets, the city rewarded curiosity and flexibility. While it’s undeniably a pricey destination, Amsterdam offers an experience that feels both accessible and personal – whether you’re traveling with friends, on a tight schedule, or entirely on your own. Even in winter, it’s a city that invites you to slow down, wander, and find moments of connection along the way.

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